Argan oil is one of the most coveted cosmetic oils in the world. It can be found in serums costing €20, luxury products at €200, hair routines, and anti-aging treatments. But behind this popularity lie many misconceptions. Where does argan oil truly come from? Why is it so rare? How can you recognize pure oil, and how is it best used? Here's what you really need to know.
What is argan oil?
Argan oil is extracted from the kernels found inside the fruits of the Argania spinosa, a tree that grows only in one place in the world: southwestern Morocco, in a coastal strip of about 800,000 hectares between Essaouira and Agadir. This territory, classified as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO since 1998, is the world's only argan oil production area.
The argan tree is exceptional. It lives 150 to 200 years, resists drought, and produces a fruit containing a kernel very rich in precious lipids. Harvesting is done by hand, between June and August, by women from Berber cooperatives who have passed down this expertise for over a thousand years.
The process to obtain one liter of oil is extraordinarily long:
- It takes 30 kg of fruit to extract 1 kg of kernels
- And 3 kg of kernels to produce 1 liter of oil
- An experienced woman crushes about 1 kg of kernels in 15 hours of manual work
It is this rarity combined with this labor intensity that explains the high price of authentic argan oil, and that has earned it its nickname: Morocco's liquid gold.
The benefits of argan oil
Argan oil has been the subject of numerous scientific studies over the past thirty years. Its composition explains why it has become a benchmark in cosmetics.
Exceptional lipid composition
Argan oil is composed of 80% unsaturated fatty acids, including oleic acid (omega 9, 42 to 48%) and linoleic acid (omega 6, 30 to 38%). These two fatty acids are essential for the proper functioning of the skin barrier. Their ratio in argan oil is particularly close to that of human sebum, which explains its very good tolerance, even on sensitive skin.
A concentrate of vitamin E
Argan oil contains about 700 mg of tocopherols (vitamin E) per kilo, which is two to three times more than olive oil. Vitamin E is one of the most effective antioxidants for neutralizing free radicals, responsible for premature skin aging. It helps the skin defend itself against external aggressions: sun, pollution, wind.
Rare anti-aging active ingredients
Argan oil contains two rare phytosterols in nature: schottenol and spinasterol. These molecules have been identified as stimulating cell regeneration and improving skin elasticity. They are found only in very small quantities in other vegetable oils.
Natural soothing action
The polyphenols present in argan oil have a recognized anti-inflammatory action. This is why it is traditionally used on atopic skin, in cases of mild eczema, and on areas irritated by wind or sun. Several dermatological studies confirm this soothing action on reactive skin.
Excellent penetration
Unlike many vegetable oils, argan oil does not leave a greasy film on the skin. Its molecular structure allows it to penetrate quickly, within minutes. This is what makes it one of the few oils that are suitable for both dry and combination skin.
Cosmetic or food argan oil: what's the difference?
There are two families of argan oil, which are not interchangeable:
| Type | Process | Color | Odor | Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cosmetic | Cold pressing of raw kernels | Light golden yellow | Light, barely perceptible | Skin, hair, nails |
| Food | Roasted and then pressed kernels | Amber brown | Distinct, nutty notes | Cooking (amlou, salads) |
For cosmetic use, always choose a pure, virgin, first cold-pressed argan oil, ideally from a certified women's cooperative. An authentic cosmetic oil has a golden yellow color (never brown, never transparent white) and a barely perceptible scent — definitely not odorless, which would indicate refining.
How to use argan oil?
On the face
Argan oil is used pure, a few drops (3 to 5), morning and evening, on clean and slightly damp skin. It can be applied alone or incorporated into a serum. Our Hydrating Facial Serum contains a significant amount of it, combined with other precious oils to amplify its effects.
Well tolerated by sensitive and atopic skin, it is also suitable for mature skin (anti-aging action) and combination skin (natural sebum regulation thanks to its omega 9/omega 6 ratio).
On the body
Argan oil can be used as a pure body massage oil, or incorporated into a balm. Our Ultra-Nourishing Balm combines argan oil with raw shea butter, for a complementary action: shea provides deep nourishment, argan provides antioxidants and rapid penetration.
On the hair
A few drops applied to the ends and lengths (never on the scalp for fine hair) nourish and restore. As a pre-shampoo mask, leave on for 30 minutes to 1 hour for more intense repair.
On nails and cuticles
A few drops massaged in the evening nourish cuticles and strengthen brittle nails.
Compatible with pregnancy and breastfeeding?
Yes, pure argan oil has no contraindications during pregnancy or breastfeeding. It is even recommended to prevent stretch marks, thanks to its action on skin elasticity.
How to recognize authentic argan oil
The market is flooded with counterfeit oils, diluted with cheaper oils (sunflower, soy) or refined to the point of losing their active ingredients. Here are the markers of a pure oil:
- Origin: exclusively Morocco (Souss-Massa region). Any mention of another origin is a lie — the argan tree does not grow there.
- Mention: "virgin, first cold-pressed"
- Certification: organic (Ecocert, Cosmos) and ideally cooperative label (UCFA)
- Color: golden yellow, never transparent
- Odor: light and clean, never rancid, never odorless
- Price: beware of oils under €15/100 ml — the rarity of argan makes this price impossible with authentic raw material
Store your argan oil away from light and heat. Well-preserved, it can last 12 to 18 months after opening.
Frequently asked questions
Is argan oil comedogenic?
No. Its comedogenic rating is very low (0-1 out of 5), making it an oil compatible with blemish-prone skin, provided it is pure and of good quality.
Does argan oil burn in the sun?
No, contrary to some misconceptions. Argan oil is not photosensitizing. It can be applied before sun exposure, but it obviously does not replace sun protection.
What is the difference between argan oil and organic argan oil?
The organic label guarantees that the argan trees have received no chemical treatment (rare, as the argan tree is wild) and especially that the extraction is done without petroleum solvents. Organic argan ensures the complete preservation of active ingredients.
Can argan oil replace a moisturizer?
For dry and mature skin, yes, it can be sufficient on its own. For combination or young skin, it is more integrated into a routine, as a complement to a light treatment.
How much does truly pure argan oil cost?
Expect to pay between €20 and €40 for 100 ml. Below €15, be wary. Above €60, you're mostly paying for packaging and marketing — argan remains an agricultural product, not a luxury perfume.
Our choice: raw argan at the heart of the routine
At maliā care, argan oil is a major ingredient in our Hydrating Facial Serum, where it is combined with prickly pear seed oil, black seed oil, jojoba oil, and jasmine oil. We work with Berber cooperatives that produce by hand, respecting ancestral know-how.
Our Ultra-Nourishing Balm also contains it, complementing raw shea butter, to benefit from its rapid penetration and antioxidants.
To try the complete routine at a gentle price, our Discovery Pack combines the serum and the balm — the simplest way to discover argan oil in daily use.
Article written by Lauriane and Geoffrey, founders of maliā care. Sources: INCI Beauty, PubMed database (lipid composition of Argania spinosa, action of tocopherols on skin aging), UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.